A cold pull is a nozzle-cleaning method where filament is softened inside the hotend, cooled until it grips residue, then pulled out in one steady motion. Done well, it can remove old color, burnt specks, dust, carbonized polymer, and small particles that a normal purge may leave behind. The method works best when the nozzle is partially clogged, not fully blocked, and the right pull temperature changes by filament type, hotend design, and the material used for the pull.[a]
| Filament Type in the Hotend | Best Pull Material | Soften / Fill Temperature | Starting Pull Window | What to Watch For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | PLA or cleaning filament | 200–230°C for a basic pull; some printer-specific procedures use higher fill temperatures | 80–100°C | Snapping means it is too cold or pulled sideways. Stretchy stringing means it is too warm. |
| PETG | PLA or cleaning filament after purging PETG | 230–250°C | 90–120°C if using PLA; PETG itself may need a warmer pull but often stretches | PETG can be sticky and stringy, so a clean cone shape is harder to get. |
| ABS / ASA | Cleaning filament, nylon, or PLA after a hot purge | 240–270°C, within the printer’s safe range | 100–140°C depending on pull material | Do not copy high temperatures onto a PTFE-limited hotend unless the printer maker allows it. |
| TPU / Flexible | PLA or cleaning filament, not TPU itself | 220–240°C to purge, then switch to a stiffer pull material | 80–110°C with PLA or cleaning filament | Flexible filament can stretch, jam in the extruder path, or leave a poor nozzle imprint. |
| Nylon / PA | Nylon or cleaning filament | 250–270°C, or the brand’s normal print range | 120–160°C | Nylon grips debris well, but wet nylon can bubble and weaken the pull. |
| PC / High-Temperature Blends | High-temperature cleaning filament or nylon | 260–290°C if the hotend is rated for it | 130–170°C | Use the printer maker’s limit first. The filament label is not enough. |
| PVA / BVOH Support | PLA or cleaning filament after purging support material | 190–220°C | 80–100°C with PLA | Moist support material can soften unevenly, break, or leave residue. |
| Carbon Fiber, Glass Fiber, Wood, Metal-Filled | Cleaning filament, PLA, or nylon; avoid pulling the abrasive filament itself | Match the residue material first, then purge with a cleaner pull material | 80–160°C depending on the pull material | Filled particles can scratch soft nozzles and may need repeated pulls or nozzle replacement. |
These are starting points, not fixed rules. Move in 5–10°C steps if the filament snaps, stretches, or comes out without a clear nozzle-shaped tip. Normal printing temperature bands vary by material and printer profile.[b]
Table of Contents
🌡️ Cold Pull Temperatures Are About Grip, Not Just Melting
The right cold pull temperature is the point where the filament is no longer liquid, but not fully hard either. It should grip the inside of the nozzle and heatbreak like a soft plug. Then it should come out as one piece.
This is why PLA often works well for cold pulls. It becomes stiff enough to hold a molded tip at lower temperatures, while still being removable when warmed back into the right range. Prusa’s support documentation also notes that PLA is often the preferred cold pull material because other filaments may tear or melt too much during the pull.[a]
Useful rule: the material stuck in the nozzle and the material used for the pull do not have to be the same. In many cases, it is smarter to purge the problem filament first, then use PLA, nylon, or cleaning filament for the actual pull.
Why One Temperature Chart Cannot Be Perfect
Two PLA spools can behave differently. A matte PLA may snap earlier than a glossy PLA. A silk PLA may stretch more. A direct-drive extruder gives easier access than a long Bowden tube. A hardened steel nozzle may hold heat differently from brass. Even room temperature can change the timing.
So the best cold pull chart is not a rigid command. It is a starting map. Begin inside the range, read the pulled tip, then adjust.
- If the pull breaks inside the hotend, increase the pull temperature by 5–10°C.
- If the filament stretches into a long elastic string, decrease the pull temperature by 5–10°C.
- If the tip is thin and does not show the nozzle shape, keep light downward pressure while cooling so the nozzle stays filled.
- If the same dark specks appear after two or three pulls, the residue may be higher in the melt zone or the nozzle may need a different cleaning method.
🔧 How a Cold Pull Cleans the Nozzle
A cold pull works because softened filament can flow into small internal spaces, surround debris, then lock around it as it cools. When pulled upward, it can carry residue out of the nozzle bore, melt chamber, and the lower part of the heatbreak.
The goal is not brute force. The goal is a clean internal mold.
The Three Stages
- Soften and fill: Heat the hotend enough to let the pull material flow through the nozzle.
- Cool with contact: Keep gentle pressure on the filament while it cools so the material remains packed into the nozzle cavity.
- Pull at the grip point: Warm back to the pull window, then pull straight up in one steady motion.
A good pull usually has a shaped end that resembles the inside of the nozzle. It may show old color, black marks, dusty particles, or tiny fragments. When the tip comes out clean and the nozzle shape is visible, the cold pull has done its job.
Cold Pull vs Hot Pull
A hot pull removes softened material while the filament is still more fluid. A cold pull removes material after it has cooled enough to grip residue. Many printer makers and print-core systems use both ideas: hot pulls for flushing and cold pulls for pulling out smaller particles or leftover material.[e]
- Hot pull: better for moving a lot of old material out fast.
- Cold pull: better for grabbing small debris and molded residue.
- Needle cleaning: useful near the nozzle opening, but it may push debris upward if done carelessly.
- Nozzle replacement: sensible when the nozzle is worn, enlarged, damaged, or blocked by hard particles.
✅ Before You Pull: Check the Printer, Not Only the Filament
A cold pull should not begin with yanking. First, confirm that the printer can still extrude at least a little. If nothing comes out, the nozzle may be fully clogged, the extruder may be grinding, the filament path may be blocked, or a broken piece may be stuck above the hotend.
Manufacturer procedures often separate partial clogs from full clogs. Bambu Lab’s nozzle and hotend troubleshooting pages, for example, treat cold pull cleaning as one method among several unclogging steps rather than the only fix for every blockage.[d]
Do not force it. If the filament will not move at all, forcing a cold pull can break filament inside the extruder, bend a heatbreak, damage a PTFE path, or make the clog harder to reach.
Printer-Specific Checks
- Hotend limit: never exceed the printer maker’s maximum nozzle temperature.
- PTFE-lined hotend: avoid high-temperature procedures unless the printer manual says they are safe.
- Nozzle coating: some coated nozzles have special cleaning limits. Follow the nozzle maker’s rule first.
- Filament sensor: disable auto-load or filament detection if it fights manual feeding.
- Idler access: open the idler only if your printer’s procedure asks for it or if you need a straight pull path.
- Bowden tube: remove or disconnect it only when your printer design requires direct access.
Tools That Help
- Pliers for gripping the filament above the extruder path.
- A flush cutter to remove dirty pulled ends between attempts.
- Cleaning filament, PLA, or nylon depending on the residue material.
- A brass brush for exterior nozzle residue only.
- A thin cleaning needle for minor tip blockage, used gently and only at safe temperatures.
🧵 Cold Pull Method by Filament Type
PLA Cold Pull
PLA is the easiest cold pull material for most hobby printers because it stiffens cleanly and can hold the shape of the nozzle. For a normal PLA cold pull, start by heating the nozzle to the PLA printing range, feed PLA until it flows, cool while keeping light pressure, then pull around 80–100°C.
On some Prusa printers, the documented process uses PLA, heats the nozzle to 270°C to fill the hotend, lets the system cool, then pulls at a lower temperature such as 85–100°C depending on the model and procedure. That higher fill temperature is printer-specific. Do not copy it blindly to every machine.
- Best For
- Old color residue, light under-extrusion, minor black specks, routine maintenance.
- Good Tip Shape
- Short, molded, slightly tapered, with a visible nozzle imprint.
- Common Problem
- PLA snaps if pulled too cold or from an angle.
PETG Cold Pull
PETG is sticky. That is good for layer adhesion, but it can make cold pulls messy. PETG often stretches instead of releasing as a clean plug, especially if the pull temperature is too warm. For PETG residue, a safer method is to purge PETG at its normal print temperature, then switch to PLA or cleaning filament for the pull.
If PETG itself is the only material available, start warmer than a PLA pull and adjust slowly. Expect more strings. A perfect cone is less common.
- Heat around the PETG print range until flow is steady.
- Purge until the old color or burnt material is reduced.
- Switch to PLA or cleaning filament if possible.
- Pull when the material grips without stretching into a long strand.
ABS and ASA Cold Pull
ABS and ASA print hotter than PLA and often leave residue that does not move well at PLA-only temperatures. Start by heating within the printer’s safe ABS/ASA range, purge the old material, then use cleaning filament, nylon, or PLA as the pull material.
The pull window is usually warmer than PLA because the residue softens at a higher temperature. Use small temperature changes. If the filament comes out rubbery and stretched, it is too warm. If it snaps sharply, it is too cold.
Enclosure note: if the printer was recently printing ABS or ASA in a warm enclosure, let the machine reach a stable maintenance temperature before pulling. A hot chamber can keep the filament softer than expected.
Nylon / PA Cold Pull
Nylon is a strong pull material because it can grab debris without breaking as easily as many brittle filaments. It is especially useful after high-temperature materials, old PETG, or mixed residue. The catch is moisture. Wet nylon bubbles, hisses, and weakens the pull.
Use dry nylon only. Heat it in the normal PA printing range, feed until flow is clean, then cool into a warmer pull window than PLA. Many users begin around 120–160°C, then tune by feel.
- Use dry filament.
- Pull straight, not sideways.
- Trim the dirty end and repeat if black marks remain.
- Do not leave nylon cooking in the hotend while you prepare tools.
TPU and Flexible Filament Cold Pull
TPU is usually a poor pull material. It bends, stretches, compresses in the feeder, and may not transmit pulling force cleanly through the hotend. If the nozzle contains TPU residue, purge it while hot, then switch to PLA or cleaning filament.
This is one of the most common cold pull mistakes: trying to clean flexible filament with flexible filament. Use something stiffer.
PVA and BVOH Support Material Cold Pull
PVA and BVOH are support materials, not ideal cold pull materials. They absorb moisture easily and may soften unevenly. When support material leaves residue, purge it at a suitable temperature first, then use PLA or cleaning filament for the pull.
Keep the temperature moderate. Overheating wet support material can leave more residue than it removes.
Carbon Fiber, Glass Fiber, Wood, and Metal-Filled Filaments
Filled filaments can create two different issues: normal polymer residue and solid filler particles. A cold pull may remove soft residue, but it will not repair a worn nozzle, and it may not remove hard particles trapped in a damaged bore.
Do not use abrasive filament itself as the pull material unless the material maker specifically recommends it. Use cleaning filament, PLA, or nylon instead. If the nozzle has printed many abrasive spools and extrusion remains uneven after cleaning, nozzle wear may be the real cause.
Cleaning Filament
Cleaning filament is made for hotend maintenance. Many types soften across a wide temperature span, so they can be used between material changes and for hot/cold pulls. It is useful when moving from a high-temperature filament to a lower-temperature filament, because it can help carry old residue out before the next print.
Follow the brand’s label. Cleaning filament formulas vary.
🛠️ Step-by-Step Cold Pull Process
Use This General Method When Your Printer Manual Does Not Provide a Guided Routine
- Unload or cut the current filament. Leave a clean, straight piece available for manual feeding.
- Choose the pull material. PLA is fine for many low-temperature residues. Nylon or cleaning filament is better for tougher or hotter residue.
- Heat the nozzle. Use the normal printing range for the residue material or the pull material, staying within the printer’s safe limit.
- Feed by hand. Push filament until it exits the nozzle smoothly. You want the nozzle fully packed.
- Start cooling. Keep gentle downward pressure as the temperature drops so the inside stays filled.
- Clear outside ooze. Remove the blob below the nozzle so it does not catch during the pull.
- Stop at the pull window. For PLA, begin around 80–100°C. For nylon or high-temperature cleaning filament, begin warmer.
- Pull straight upward. Use one steady movement. Do not twist sideways.
- Inspect the tip. Cut off the dirty end and repeat until the tip comes out clean.
- Purge after cleaning. Load the next filament and extrude enough material to confirm smooth flow.
Some modern printers include an automatic or guided cold pull routine. If your printer has that option, use it first. Guided routines usually manage the heat-up, cool-down, and unload temperature better than manual guessing.
How Much Force Is Normal?
A good pull has resistance, but it should not feel like you are lifting the printer by the filament. If the filament does not move, reheat slightly. If it stretches for several centimeters, cool more. If it breaks repeatedly, switch to a stronger pull material or use the manufacturer’s unclogging process.
🔍 How to Read the Pulled Filament Tip
The pulled tip is the report card. It tells you more than the temperature display.
| Tip Appearance | Likely Meaning | Next Adjustment |
|---|---|---|
| Clean cone with nozzle shape | The nozzle was filled and the pull temperature was close. | Stop if extrusion is now smooth. |
| Black specks or dark streaks | Burnt residue or old polymer came out. | Repeat with a fresh cut end. |
| Long stringy tail | The filament was too warm during the pull. | Cool 5–10°C more before pulling. |
| Flat or thin end | The nozzle was not fully packed. | Push gently while cooling and try again. |
| Broken end | The filament was too cold, too brittle, or pulled sideways. | Reheat slightly and pull straighter. |
| No debris, but flow is still weak | The issue may be heat creep, worn nozzle, extruder tension, wet filament, or a full blockage elsewhere. | Check the filament path and printer-specific troubleshooting steps. |
Clean does not always mean fixed. If extrusion still clicks, skips, or curls sharply after several clean pulls, inspect the nozzle bore, heatbreak, extruder gears, PTFE tube, and filament dryness.
🧩 Cold Pull Troubleshooting by Symptom
The Filament Snaps Inside the Hotend
Reheat the nozzle slightly above the last pull temperature and try to remove the broken piece with steady upward force. If it is too short to grip, heat to the filament’s printing range and push fresh filament behind it. Do not dig into the heatbreak with hard tools unless the printer maker’s procedure allows it.
The Filament Stretches Like Gum
The pull is too hot. Cool lower before pulling. PETG, TPU, and some silk filaments are more likely to stretch, so switch to PLA, nylon, or cleaning filament if the tip never forms cleanly.
The Nozzle Still Under-Extrudes After Several Pulls
The problem may not be residue. Check for:
- Worn or clogged nozzle opening.
- Extruder gear dust packed around the drive teeth.
- Too much idler pressure grinding the filament.
- Heat creep softening filament too high in the heatbreak.
- Wet filament bubbling during extrusion.
- Incorrect nozzle temperature for the loaded filament.
- Wrong nozzle diameter selected in the slicer.
The Pull Comes Out Clean but Old Color Still Appears
Color pigment can remain in tiny internal spaces. Run another short purge at the next material’s print temperature. For strong pigment changes, such as black PETG to natural PLA, one cold pull may not remove every trace.
The Printer Has a Coated or Specialty Nozzle
Follow the nozzle maker’s rule before using force. Some specialty nozzles are not meant for standard cold pulls. Prusa’s documentation, for example, tells users not to use the cold-pull method with Nozzle X and to use cleaning filament instead.[a]
📌 Safer Temperature Logic for Mixed-Material Changes
Many clogs happen during material changes, not during steady printing. The risky case is moving from a high-temperature material to a lower-temperature one. If high-temperature residue remains in the nozzle, the lower-temperature filament may not be hot enough to push it out.
| Material Change | Cleaning Approach | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| PETG to PLA | Purge PETG hot, then cold pull with PLA around the PLA pull window. | PETG residue may not clear well at normal PLA temperatures. |
| ABS / ASA to PLA | Use cleaning filament or a high-temperature purge before loading PLA. | ABS/ASA residue needs more heat than PLA normally uses. |
| Nylon to PLA | Purge nylon at nylon temperature, then use cleaning filament or PLA after flow is stable. | Nylon residue can remain sticky if cooled too early. |
| Filled filament to standard filament | Purge well, cold pull with cleaning filament or PLA, then inspect flow. | Solid filler particles may remain even after polymer residue clears. |
| Support material to model material | Purge at support temperature, then clean with PLA or cleaning filament. | Wet support residue can soften unevenly and contaminate the next print. |
When in doubt, clean at the temperature needed by the hotter material first, then move down. This prevents a low-temperature filament from trying to push out residue that is still too stiff to move.
🧼 When a Cold Pull Is Worth Doing
A cold pull is not something every printer needs after every spool. Too much maintenance can create its own problems. Use it when the symptoms point to residue or a partial blockage.
- Extrusion is thinner than expected even with dry filament.
- The nozzle curls filament upward during extrusion.
- Small dark specks appear after changing material.
- Old color keeps showing after a normal purge.
- The extruder clicks, but filament still comes out a little.
- You are switching from a high-temperature or filled filament to a lower-temperature filament.
Skip the cold pull if the printer is working well and there are no flow symptoms. Use normal purging instead.
FAQ
What filament is best for cold pulls?
PLA is often the easiest choice for common nozzle cleaning because it forms a firm pulled tip at lower temperatures. Nylon and cleaning filament are better for tougher residue, high-temperature materials, or mixed-material hotends.
Can I cold pull with the same filament that caused the clog?
Sometimes, but it is not always the best choice. PETG can stretch, TPU can bend, and filled filaments can carry abrasive particles. In many cases, purge the problem filament first, then pull with PLA, nylon, or cleaning filament.
What temperature should I use for a PLA cold pull?
For many printers, start around 80–100°C for the pull after the nozzle has been filled with PLA. Some printer-specific procedures use a different routine, so follow your printer’s guided cold pull option when available.
Why does my cold pull keep breaking?
The pull is probably too cold, the filament is brittle, or the filament is being pulled at an angle. Reheat 5–10°C, pull straight upward, and use fresh PLA or nylon if the current filament keeps snapping.
Why does my cold pull stretch instead of coming out clean?
The material is too warm or too elastic. Let the nozzle cool a little more before pulling. If you are using PETG or TPU, switch to PLA, nylon, or cleaning filament.
Can a cold pull fix a fully clogged nozzle?
Not reliably. A cold pull is best when some filament can still extrude. If nothing comes out, use the printer maker’s full unclogging procedure or remove the nozzle if your printer design allows it.
How many cold pulls should I do?
One to three pulls is usually enough for light residue. Stop when the pulled tip is clean and extrusion is smooth. If repeated pulls do not improve flow, check the nozzle, extruder gears, PTFE path, heatbreak, and filament condition.
Should I cold pull after printing carbon fiber filament?
It can help remove polymer residue, but it cannot reverse nozzle wear or always remove trapped filler particles. Use a hardened nozzle for abrasive filaments, purge well, and use cleaning filament or PLA for the pull rather than the abrasive filament itself.
Sources
- [a] Prusa Knowledge Base: Cold Pull — Used for the definition of cold pull, partial-clog use case, PLA recommendation, manual/automatic routine details, and specialty-nozzle caution. (Official printer manufacturer support documentation.)
- [b] Prusa Knowledge Base: Filament Material Guide — Used for nozzle temperature bands across PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, PA, PC, support, composite, and filled materials. (Official manufacturer material reference.)
- [c] Bambu Lab Wiki: What Is Cold Pull and How to Perform It — Used for cold pull method context and PLA cold pull temperature guidance. (Official Bambu Lab technical wiki.)
- [d] Bambu Lab Wiki: Nozzle / Hotend Unclogging Procedure for X1/P1 — Used for the distinction between cold pull cleaning and broader nozzle/hotend unclogging steps. (Official printer troubleshooting documentation.)
- [e] UltiMaker / MakerBot Support: UltiMaker Cleaning Filament — Used for cleaning filament context in hot and cold pull maintenance. (Official UltiMaker support resource hosted by MakerBot.)